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reading comments of climb videos, i realized that climbers are a bunch of detestable people … every one thinks they have right
As an engineer the only anchor I would risk my life with is a raw bolt because the torque applied is stopping it pulling out, as long as that is substantially more than your weight then it will never come out unless the laws of physics change, the glued bolts and cams use mechanical friction and interference which can change for a number of reasons.
None of this video makes any sense or insures safety.
Rock climbing has never made any sense to me, how it logically works, or how in the world of God it would be safe.This entire video fully confirms that rock climbing is wildly dangerous, even laughably so.How can people trust any of these methods?Nonsense. I will never rock climb. Thank you and goodnight.
is that in arco near the lake garda?
Never Put a sling into your belay loop for a personal anchor! Rope/sling/cordage goes through your dual loops and Metal only on the belay loop!
so what do they do with those things in the rocks? just leave them there??
While I see a lot of people pointing out all the problems with his instructions, as someone who knows literally nothing about climbing gear, I at least found this interesting to get an idea of what sorts of stuff is used for anchors
nope,i will never do rock climbing.
you hurt the rock and my soul. im going to cry myself to sleep now sebastian dildo
He put the piton in upside down. Also, it's not 1947.
I like how he's talking about anchor redundancy while he is anchored to only one bolt.
Couldn't watch this all the way through. Please don't follow this advice, get an experienced leader to show you the ropes
this is disgusting and i cant watch anymore.
People! Stay away from this advice. Very far away!
Please, no one listen to this guy. He is inept and misinformed.
Please, no one listen to this guy. He is inept. There is no point in critiquing to find the good. There is no good. All is less than desirable and has a high likely of leading to death. This video should be removed.
Better to use two points of protection at all times as a back-up. If you have two bolts use them both!!! He's hanging on a cows tail from a single bolt …
There seems to be a fair bit of discussion here about knotting dynema slings in part due to the studies run by DMM and the resulting failures one knot can produce in factor 1 and factor 2 falls using standard 80KG test loads. Please note this study and those like it (while very helpful) are extremely conservative given the rigid nature or the anchor (possibly realistic) and the load (unrealistic). An actual climber's body will compress in the harness and may even enter a rotation. Each of these occurrences will effectively act like rope stretch and lower the overall loads. Personally I do not tie knots in Dynema and prefer to use a 7mm cordellete where possible. But the overall impression people seem to have is overly sever. If anyone knows of testing using a realistic climber load, please reply with a link as I think that information could be very useful.
Damage the cable??!!!What about the gawd damn rock!
Very depressing overall. And knots in a dyneema? Dmm sling tests video – check it out and start using nylon with knots or sliding X with your dyneema
This is bad, pure vandalism without being needed.
As others have noted, there are several things wrong with the methods he shows:– First, always clip the bolts directly, not the ends of the chains. Only use the chains when rappelling. Clipping the ends of the chains wears them out faster, and introduces more potential failure points (especially with that janky hardware store connector at the bottom, clearly not rated for climbing..)
– The standard is to use a locking carabiner on each bolt, and two locking biners at the master point for top-roping (one if you're belaying directly off the anchor).. For multi-point anchors, you don't necessarily need a locking biner at every piece, but at least some of them should be locking, generally the most critical / strongest pieces.
– Pitons and copperheads?! What century is this? I'm sure that gear still has it's place, but these days and for 99% of people, stick to removable gear and 'clean climbing' ethics, and use nuts, cams, tricams, hexes, etc.
– A sliding X is still popular, and whether using it with a single sling is sufficiently safe is debateable.. However it is not redundant, and it is easy enough to add a second sling, or put load-limiter knots on each side, to make it redundant.
Best thing about all climbing instructional videos? The comments. You can learn so much and see so many view points. From there, you can make your own more educated decisions.
Thank you all!
Jesus, no mention of ethics or clean climbing when using pitons/copperheads. Sure there's places where it's acceptable, and I'd value my life over the rock any day, but in a lovely crack like that, with plenty of pockets which look like they would take a nut you really shouldn't be hammering in stuff unless you have no choice. If you tried that in North Wales someone would soon "educate" you quite forcefully.
it would be wonderful if rock everywhere was as solid as that but i think it would be good to demonstrate a 4,5 or up to a 7 point anchor
Not to mention you're putting unnecessary wear on the chains by belaying off them.
The anchor at the beginning is very poor. I'm not trying to "hate" but why are you belaying off the chains and not off the bolts? You increase the risk of failure when you put each link in the chain into play. Why use a magic x if you're only going to use one sling? It's not a redundant system. If the sling breaks the entire system will fail.
I always hear mixed thoughts about the Sliding X anchor. Seems to be a very controversial topic.
I thought it was informative. thanks for the video.
If you are the lead climbing you will have a person climbing behind you cleaning up the protection (you'll be belaying from above). Then the follower will put the protection back on the lead climbers rack for the next pitch.
once the first climber makes his first pitch ascent, he sets an anchor point and belays for the second climber (who was his belayer) who cleans the route on the climb up to him.
I'm a noob how do u get ure cams etc back when u do a big wall climb or something
Awesome video!! Haters gonna hate!
he said RANGE of the cam. range is how far it will open, if it was at 90% it would be way to far open, and not enough teeth of the cam would be in contact with the rock. if its more than 70% opened up its too small for that crack
Dont listen to "know it all" haters who feel the need to talk about how much smarter thay are on every video. nice work keep it up
vientos sebas echale ganas te va a ir de huevos carnal!!!! nos vemos pronto!!!
hi thanx for your feed back, you have some really interesting points here, good eye i do was attached to one point that was overconfidence of the area, i should definitely work on risk management for my next videos, i agree that teaching the safest technics is always the best, but somtimes it can get complicated to do figure eight and overhang not is enough for the force crated on an anchor. I used a head because in a bailing situation heads are only a couple bucks as with stoppers there are 15$
hi loginatnine, i apriciate your feedback this is my first video and i would really like to improve on my next ones…, I agree with you the more range the cam is it would be stronger, but for me 90 % is a tricky one because if cams walk they could get stuck and it will also depend on the situacion, type of rock, and what you have left in your harness… thx for feedback
This video is problematic. These are techniques that should be taught in person. While it is fine to demonstrate these techniques here, this video is advertised as a lesson when it should not be.
-It appears that you are directly anchored to only one bolt
-Teach the safest possible technique (instead of the sliding x, show an equalized figure 8 using four locking biners)
-Alpine anchor doesn't belong in this lesson.
-Why did you use a head instead of a stopper in the alpine anchor?
Wow talk about misinformation, between 40 and 70% of the range for cams? Try between 50 and 90. And the video doesn't even show it right, it shows like 50% and 30%. You clearly don't understand how cams work.
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