Breaking Down Independence in the Watch Industry | The Classroom

Breaking Down Independence in the Watch Industry | The Classroom



you should care about independent watchmaking because at the end of the day that's where it all starts right doesn't matter if you're the world's largest conglomerate at some point those watch brands were independent they go from being these small micro independents to large companies over time twenty nineteen independents that I have my eye on are going to be a crib ei it's the number one brain that sticks out to me very small twenty five watches a year watchmakers from Jeffers jeppy who has this incredible background he makes some of the nicest watches I've ever seen regardless of brand the biggest difference now is people are I think more open and willing to look at independence where they haven't maybe always been one it could be five point two it could be access 2019 I think you're gonna see more people start to look at independence as alternative to some of the brands that we would normally see your Vash Rhonda breguet some of the some of the higher end brands that are in the in the big conglomerates I think these are really gonna manifest themselves through really sort of smart marketing strategies by the but independents themselves and also the quality would watch it's like at the end of the day that's what's gonna make a difference other brands that I think are gonna be up and coming or at least should should get more recognition I think LeBron Ferrier is gonna be another brand this year they had a great si HH they had some really nice new additions to their existing collection which i think is important and then they did release a new model which is a tank shaped piece which to me is going to be an interesting fit because he's used to doing round cases and I'd loved what he did last year so adding this new tank shaped piece that's going to be something that I'm interested to see where that goes another brand I think you always have to keep your eye on re chard mill so there's there's differences between being an independent brain and being a micro independent brain and literally is the amount of units right Audemars Piguet Patek Rolex those are all independence so they're not micro brands obviously I would say reach our mill is still still fairly micro and they don't make that many watches a year so you're still talking about a brand that's making a small amount of units because quite frankly they they really don't need to make a ton of units I mean they have a limited edition piece there McLaren RM 11 that is million dollars a piece they're doing 70 of them they don't need to do a lot and they sell out which is to me unbelievable I mean it really is so they're still doing small quantity watches if you're talking about genuine micro independence like a trivia 25 units a year that's a genuine independent carry boots Elaine and makes 30 watches or something along those lines a year Thomas pressure makes a handful of watches you've got RW smith who makes three or four whatever they the amount in I mean it's such a small amount maybe it's a dozen watches but it's so small those are still the micro independence and they still do you know your level of personalization really cool super limited quantity pieces while still making enough watches to put in stores and open boutiques and things like that so they're in a sweet spot what I do see a lot of these independent watchmakers doing especially on the micro independent level again is they do a lot of consulting for other brands right so carry blue Tulane and we'll work with one of my favorite another independent brain M BNF and he'll do a movement for them receptor jeppie will consult with certain brands and and help them design develop movements so they sort of have to do other things in order to make their business grow there's some independence that can be micro independence that sell watches under a thousand bucks 2,000 bucks you know how the manufacturing process is good probably a little bit difference probably more outsource manufacturing whereas I don't know a lot about the price points on some of these independents but I can tell you you know you're realistically looking at a lot of times at twenty-five to thirty thousand dollar entry-level the best of the best it's the market I think is correct in the pricing of those watches because you could put a Vacheron next to a carry vu Tulane and and you can see that the level of quality is is there between both brands three brands that I'd chose to look out for a trivia rough area in rashard mill all have three what I think are sort of different perspectives coming in to this year a kriby is so small they are the epitome of what a independent is and I think that's probably the most important thing like it is a watchmaker building a watch by hand and then we'll Ralph Ferrier which is a little bit different but they're they're not necessarily manufacturing all their movements but they are refinishing them to the finest standards available and they're they're building on like their foundation of a handful of watches and that collect you're starting to see a blossom I love how you can watch a an independent actually go from being a a watchmaker that has just a couple watches coming out of the workshop to having 150 and then maybe growth to 200 or whatever it might be done in line and then RM I love because there's such a marketing juggernaut and they're able to do these crazy things and sort of they cross over the culture and things that a lot of brands find it very difficult to do and I just think that the marketing side as well as the products because they create these incredible looking watches that look like these machines from the future that are sitting on people's wrists with bold colors and they're just super fascinating across the board and 2019 they show you the way as an independent watchmaker that yeah you can get there like you can you can follow this path maybe not identically because there they have a very focused and very sort of dynamic product line that all fits within itself but they're able to to show real growth and and really like collectors just clamor to it they people want to own an RM and I think that's really fascinating because that's not the case with every independent if you have a lot of disposable income and you are interested in a independent brain RM is probably a brand that you have heard of if it's outside of those of the big guys the paddocks the Rolexes and the Audemars Piguet like that RM is sitting right there right in front of you so the person who tends to go after a independent brain is to me somebody who has found themselves in their collecting habits right they've sort of understood where they want to go most people know the big names of the Omega is the Rolexes so by the time you start getting to even a brain like Rand Seco which is technically a it's a very large independent but it isn't impendent and they're not extraordinarily expensive once they start moving in that direction I find with my own customers that they are really starting to carve out their niche what they're really looking for a lot of times accessibility becomes an issue but the person who decides that they want a law on ferry a has probably at some point owned a Patek they've owned a breguet they've owned another high-end brand and they have found that Lorant Ferrier style is matches more of their personality and what they're looking for interestingly the independents are the ones that hold the value the best I would not advise looking at an independent necessarily if you're if you're looking at it for the for the money because what's going to happen is you are probably one of a very small number of people who have the means to buy the watch to begin with whatever that brand is I would tell people and I do tell my customers that when you were looking at independence specifically you need to sort of look at what fits your personality what fits your style because it's you can have that rashard mill which is crazy or ambien eff that literally looks like a fastback or like a rocket ship or something or you can do something that's sleek and understated like a rough area there's no there's no right answer to to tell a customer other than to sort of follow whatever your sensibilities are in the independency but the money is going to be something that I think long-term if you hold the watches long term you'll be safe in them over a course of a decade or something like that I wouldn't recommend getting into independent to necessarily use it and then to try to get out of it in a short amount of time because that's you know financially that probably doesn't make a lot of sense I still see a lot of independence they want to stay that way they want to stay micro they want to stay small and they want to create value where they think there are opportunities where customers might feel like they've been left behind by some of the bigger bigger kalam rates and I think that's actually smart strategy moving forward because there's so much exposure there's so much more information out there and there's more so much more accessibility to get to these guys that I actually think that that it could be a winning strategy for a lot of companies in 2019 and beyond I love talking about independent watch makers and independent watch making so if you have any questions about it you want to reach me contact me be sure to hit me up on my Instagram and I'll make sure I get a hold of you we can talk about it we can swap stories here to help out I hope you liked my video if you did comment like subscribe for more watch box Studios original content

20 thoughts on “Breaking Down Independence in the Watch Industry | The Classroom

  1. Does Seiko actually classify as an independent watchmaker considering they’re owned by Epson Seiko, who also own Orient?

  2. Please forgive me if this is a silly question, but what defines an independent brand? I'm assuming it's a brand that is not part of a watch group, and also makes their own in-house movements? Anything else I"m missing there? For example, if Christopher Ward makes in-house movements, can it be said to be an independent? Thanks.

  3. Loved the story of the pickpocket who just stole a Mielle worth 1m USD….a 22 year old …aaaaarrrggghhh…bet daddy was pissed

  4. I'm considering Harbring at some point, I was wondering what you thought of the brand? Seems like they build small quantities of watches they make, I'm not sure of the movements though, sometimes I read they made them, other times I hear they use eta movements they decorate and regulate.

  5. Two great independent watch companies to look at:

    Swiss Watch Company – SWCUSA.com

    JS Watch Company – Reykjavik Iceland

  6. still fantastic videos. it just seems as if someone snatched all the bauhaus from nomos or junghans, took away the bling from bulgari and told me the that cartier bracelet for the lady was out of style 🙂 thanks for the vids.

    SO: BRING BACK THAT BEAUTIFUL CHAIR

  7. A brand that makes 15 watches and has boutiques, come on…Want affordable?? Brellum. Higher end: Grand Seiko.

  8. Also :
    – urwerk
    – de bethune
    – lang & heyne
    – romain gauthier
    – dewitt
    – HYT
    – Czapek & Cie.
    – Greubel Forsey

    – RGM

    – Kerbedanz
    – Christophe Claret

    – H. Moser & Cie.

    – NOMOS Glashütte

  9. With Richard Mille specifically I don't see the value behind…, you pay for branding, materials and in some cases design, for me is a risky long term proposition…

  10. With every video, I realize that you are not speaking to me. $30,000 is more than a lot of disposable income to spend on what you consider to be a micro-brand watch. Thanks for your hard work, your videos are well done and informative! Good bye!

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