“NO MORE WARS”
This trip leads me to place… of historical memory for Greece. “HERE, ON 13/12/1943,
EVERY MALE IN KALAVRITA OVER THE AGE OF 12
WAS EXECUTED BY THE GERMAN INVADERS.” It is also one of the most popular
winter destinations in Greece. I am in Kalavrita,
between the snowy slopes of Helmos… and the Vouraikos gorge… there is such beautiful scenery,
a beautiful ski center… and what is most amazing
is that this ski center… has attracted young people… to get involved
with local traditional gastronomy. Marmalades, dairy products
and so much more… are flavors which I came to try. Due to the creation
of the ski center… many young people
have discovered Kalavrita… and have relocated here. One of these people is Yiannis… who left his life in Athens behind… to create a beautiful
mountain guest house… surrounded by a farm. Kerpini
Guesthouse owner Hello Yiannis! What’s up? How are you? All good, you? What a nice situation
you have going here. I’ve got a nice thing going… You mean a great thing! You can say that. It requires some work.
We are shoveling snow now… -Did you have a lot of snow this year?
-Yes, it’s going well. How did you come here? I used to visit for many years
because of the ski center… and I found it alluring.
I also wanted to leave Athens… -You snowboarded.
-Yes. -You still do.
-Yes. Now that we are up here,
of course we do. I combined it with work… and we have a great quality of life… -Being able to be away from Athens.
-Of course. Do you want
to go to the garden… and see if there is anything left
from the snow… and then go collect some eggs
from the chickens? -Let’s go! This way?
-Yes. There is something left.
Some cabbages… Where are the chickens? -Down there.
-Great. Let’s go. Let’s pick a cabbage first
so we can feed them the leaves. We don’t have a knife,
but we will manage. Let me carry something. These are for the donkey
and the chickens. -Shall we cut a red one?
-Sure. It looks great. Perfect. Let’s go. There’s the donkey! Arhontoula, 10 months old! -Look at how excited she is!
-Arhontoula! -It’s time to eat.
-Come here girl. What have we brought you? Nothing goes to waste here,
because we give everything to the chickens… and we compost the leftovers. Really? We use it as a fertilizer
for the garden. Perfect. -Do we have eggs?
-Let’s see the chickens. -We have two here.
-Look at that. -Three here…
-Despite the cold… the girls lay their eggs. So, we have eggs,
we have cabbages… Shall we go grab a bite? Why not.
You cook right? Of course!
We can’t be hungry in the cold! Let’s see what you can do
in the kitchen. Hello guys! -Hello!
-Beat root salad. This is from the garden. From the garden, yes.
It has green apples and pollen… -Pollen?
-Thank you. The walnuts are from our own walnut trees. -So, the area has walnut trees?
-Yes, quite a few. What do you think? This is how I like beats. A bit crunchy, not too soft. Beats and apples
are a classic combination… but I really enjoyed that twist
with the pollen. It is very smart. The salad immediately becomes
a superfood. A salad that has it all! It is very nice and in season. We also prepared “Striftari”… This pasta is made locally… with finely sliced pancetta… Erymanthos kefalograviera cheese
and one egg… we put in the oven in a clay pot… You will try it,
its flavor is quite intense. The idea is to break the egg… -Right?
-Exactly… and then you mix it. We mix it all up… What do you think? -Mountainous.
-Exactly. Calorie packed, but… balanced as well. You don’t make the pasta,
you buy it, right? The pasta is made here in Kalavrita,
it’s a local product. Here is some bread. Perfect, thank you! Try the bread, it is kneaded,
baked in the wood oven… it’s very good. This is amazing. You order one salad
and two of these… and a couple
has had a wonderful meal. I’m going to have some bread.
You said it is kneaded, right? Bread making is an art. It’s very good. It is baked
in a traditional wood oven… They fire it up every day… You should go see.
It is very nice. And the ski center? Are going to go? To be honest, I have never been
to a ski center. I have no idea what it’s like. Here’s your chance!
You are so close. I am very close
and from what I have gathered… the ski center here
is state of the art. It is modern
but it will improve more. There will be a large investment
in the next few years… but generally speaking
it is in great condition. You said the meat is pancetta,
but it is very lean. We clean the fat off. So we are eating healthy,
on the mountain. Do you want to eat now
and talk later? -This can’t be eaten cold.
-You are right. It’s delicious. I decided to take Yiannis’s advice… and visit the bakery
that makes the incredible bread…. that we just tried. Hello! -Good morning!
-How are you? Fine and you?
Welcome to Kalavrita… and to our traditional bakery. Well said. I heard
that you make traditional bread… with sourdough… and it is baked in a wood oven. This is hand kneaded bread… -I have tried it.
-You will have some more now. -You are forcing me.
-Absolutely. We also have these loaves,
also baked in the wood oven… one and two kilo loaves,
also with sourdough. -Your timing is perfect.
-Delicious. If you are up to it
you can go to the production area. I will. Hello. Good morning. Question: How much bread
do you make in a minute? -Have you timed it?
-No, never. -Who is faster?
-He is. They brought me here
so you can show me how you make bread. So, how do you start? We mix flour,
salt and the sourdough starter… water and we knead. You mix and make the dough.
I gather the secret is in the starter. Yes, definitely. It’s from the Mega Spileo Monastery
and we renew it each year. -So you add flour to maintain it,
-Yes, water, flour and prepare it. Sourdough starter is essentially
a living organism. You set it aside… and feed and care for it, daily. It requires frequent feedings. What’s next?
Do we put them in the stove? We put them in the stove
for about half an hour… and then we bake them
in the wood oven. And the extras?
How many loaves fit in the oven? 110 kilos. -It fits 110 loaves?
-Yes. Unbelievable. You guys are like a machine! Do you want to put some loaves in? Why not! Take it… Next to the other one. I am an artist! What do you think? -Very good.
-I heard you are hiring. -I’m your man.
-Great. -What time does your shift start?
-Two o’clock. -Two o’clock in the morning?
-Yes. That’s nighttime. For us it’s morning. -I am on a roll here.
-We will keep you here. It’s hard work! It’s no joke.
You need strong arms. -How many loaves will we bake today?
-Eighty. Eighty loaves.
Now what? We have two left over. -I can put the rest in.
-No, I will do it. I have one gap here… -Bring me the other one.
-Last one. Awesome. I want some applause,
I did it by myself! Thank you, thank you! I am officially
a bread making machine! Thank you. You are expecting me
to take them out too, right? -Yes.
-I don’t think so. The only dessert that has
as much protein as a regular meal. To show you my love… I wanted to put all these roses
in a jar… -What’s the milk-feta ratio?
-4 kilos of milk make 1 kilo of feta. I will call you once in a while. In America it’s called Mac ‘n’ cheese. In Greece we call it
pasta with cheese. Kalavrita has a great tradition
in live stock farming. I am happy to hear
that there are young people… that not only continue
this tradition… but also implement
new ideas and knowledge… for the advancement of the field. Kostas is one of these
new generation live stock farmers… who is waiting for me
at an organic cow farm… in the outskirts of Kalavrita. Kerpini – Skepasto
Live stock Farmer Hello, Kostas. Good morning Akis. -How are you?
-Great. -I am doing the third feeding of the day.
-The third? When is the first one? First they eat cattle feed… then the corn silage… and the grass is last. Grass is the dessert. It just fills their stomach. Your cows are very pretty,
excuse me for saying so… They are pretty. It’s in their nature but I think
we contribute to their calmness. and so gentle. We talk to them, we pet them… -We play music for them.
-What kind of music? Classic, rock,
we like rock… When? During the day? Twice a day when they go in the stables
to be milked and eat. I gather that the cows
are 100% organic… Organic live stock production
and organic farming… we cultivate all the land here… we produce all their food. and you have them solely
for milk production. Yes. Their breed is strictly
for milk production. How many liters of milk
can a cow produce a day? 25-30 liters a day. -Really?
-Yes. -That much?
-They are milked two times a day. Morning and afternoon. So ten cows make about
200 kilos a day, 250. 250 kilos yes. That’s a lot. Yes and that’s why
they eat so much. So, you milk twice
and feed them three times… that means you work from
morning to night. We wake up at 5:30-6:00… in the summer we put in a lot of hours
because of the food… but in the winter
we don’t work that many hours. Is this job enough to support you
or do you have a second job? I have a second job. -What do you do?
-I am a truck driver. Great. Motor vehicles, ski, cows…
You do everything. These are the calves… They are 7 days apart. You are so cute! These two that look alike are males
and this one is female. -She is a bit prettier.
-Yes. You can tell she is female. -She plays hard to get.
-She is a lady. We saw the little ones. I want to thank you for the tour… -Thank you.
-I will let you get back to it. I know you want to go
to the mountain, the weather is perfect.. It’s the ideal weather. -How long will you ski for?
-3-4 hours. I will let you get to it.
I just thought of what to cook. Skepasto – Kertezi
Recipe: Superfood Rice Pudding With such fresh milk… I will make something milk based. I will make rice pudding,
but a different rice pudding… Without rice. Don’t laugh. I’m not joking. I want it to be a superfood,
very nutritious… so I will use different ingredients
to make it very nutritious. I take a small pot… When we make rice pudding
we never only use milk. We add water as well… It’s hot, that’s ok,
and milk. Because if I only use milk
it will burn on the bottom of the pot. And heavy cream.
Three ingredients. I am going to use
quinoa, cracked wheat and oats… The oats cook very fast,
so I will add them last. The first ingredient I add
is quinoa. I will wait five minutes
for my mixture to boil. As soon as it starts boiling,
I will add the cracked wheat. I want some orange zest… to add a wonderful aroma.
You can add vanilla, lemon, lime… Whatever citrus fruit you like… I like orange for this recipe.
I will be generous. I will use the zest of one orange… one cinnamon stick… and my mixture started to boil again. which means that
everything is almost ready. As soon as it
comes to a boil again… we will add the final ingredient,
the oats. I will stir and the mixture
is slowly starting to thicken. Perfect. I will turn off the burner… and I will set it aside
for 5 minutes, or less. Two to three. I cover it. I will take some nuts… Pistachios… I chose hazelnuts as well,
you can use whatever you like. By adding the nuts we have all
the protein we need from a dessert. Usually desserts don’t have protein… This is a protein dessert. So… I add them in… I will add the honey in last… because I want it to have
some sweetness. As you can see the temperature is 0°C,
and the honey froze. That’s ok. I will get it out. Let’s measure it. One tablespoon… I will add one more. Look at this. Amazing texture. It’s the only time that honey
doesn’t fall from the spoon. That’s ok. As soon as we put it
in the warm mixture… it will soften, it will melt
and blend with everything. We stir…. I have three nice bowls here… to pour the pudding in. We made three large portions,
you can serve it in six bowls… if they are smaller. I will add some cinnamon. I will take this one,
which is fuller… and I will enjoy it. It’s the only dessert which has
as much protein as a regular meal. Orange… cinnamon… fresh milk… it has sweetness from the honey… Everything is so balanced,
it’s such a perfect dessert…. you can’t stop eating. Enjoy! Perfect! One of the most unique sweets
you can try here in Kalavrita… is the famous “Rodozahari”
(rose petal sweet). It’s something between a spoon sweet
and rose marmalade. I am going to meet Andreas… who will teach me the secrets. Kertezi – Kalavrita
Owner of traditional products shop This is nicest sweet shop
I have ever seen. The conditions are ideal for us
to make our sweet. -Rodozahari.
-Yes, rodozahari. It’s very easy.
I only see four ingredients. Four simple ingredients.
Rodozahari paste… a bit of lemon for the finish… sugar and water. How is the paste made? The paste is made from rose petals… they are cleaned, sugar is added
which has fermented with the petals… and we get this result. We add the water… Water, sugar ratio? One liter of water,
two kilos of sugar. -One to two, it’s heavy.
-It is heavy yes. We let the water and the sugar
come to a boil… and after a bit we will remove
the excess foam that is formed. We will continue
by adding the paste… Which we will boil… How many roses do you need
to make one jar? -Do you need a whole bouquet?
-Yes, for sure. So instead of a marriage proposal,
we have rodozahari… “Welcome,
I want to marry you..” -What do you think?
-A bouquet in a jar. Great. She will throw it at you,
I am sure of it. most likely… but that’s ok,
you proposed… But when she smells
what’s in the jar… She will change her mind. And you can keep this all year.
The roses won’t last more than 2 days. To show you my love… I put all these roses in a jar… with sugar
so our relationship is sweet… I did it again! So, when do we add the lemon? When the syrup starts setting,
we add the lemon… Shall I add it? It’s a natural preservative… which changes the color… and it becomes purple… just like we want it. -May I?
-Of course. Now that we added the lemon,
how much longer does it need? About 10-15 minutes… and it’s ready. Oh my god!
It’s out of this word. It is incredible. This is still warm
and we can’t put it on the yogurt… -The rooster has something to say.
-He smelled the sweet… and he likes it. When you talk so does he.
That doesn’t happen to me. So we can’t eat this now… but you brought a cold jar… Yes, we can’t use it
when it’s so warm. I’m going to serve myself
and what’s left is yours. I will try some too. -Did I split it fairly?
-You have more, but that’s ok. You’re fine.
Take this one. In the monasteries
they won’t serve it with yogurt… They will serve you coffee… and they will serve it
like a spoon sweet. Let’s try it. I can’t wait. It’s amazing. Awesome. It’s very good. You can’t describe the flavor. The yogurt is also very good.
Is it local? Yes it is. Good for you for combining
local products with local products. Local yogurt with your local sweet. -They go very well together.
-Yes they do. They are from the same place. The next day begins
with beautiful winter sunshine. My journey takes me to
Ano Loussi… One of many cheese dairies in the area
is located there. Cheese lovers definitely know
Kalavrita feta cheese. It is so unique,
it is a PDO product… and has an incredible taste. What makes this cheese
so exceptional? My friend Christos will explain. Kalavrita – Ano Loussi
Cheese producer -Hello, Christos!
-Hello, Akis! -How are you?
-Fine. We are making gruyere. How many liters of milk do you need
to make a head of this size? About 70 liters of milk. -70 liters!
-70, yes. -Where do you make the feta?
-Let’s go over there so I can show you. This is the production area for feta. The milk has been pasteurized… We have thickened and curdled it… and we are ready to remove the whey
so we can put the cheese into the molds. -Can I help?
-Of course. We have gloves here… and a cap… Perfect… What’s the milk feta ratio? Four kilos of milk
make one kilo of feta. They came out just right. Akis, push it. This starts to strain,
we help it a bit as well… so all the fluid
strains from the cheese… -And we are left with the cheese.
-Yes, the feta. Once it has strained properly,
we lower the mold… we salt it,
turn it over and salt again.. When we take these down… we put this here,
press down… it will make the three triangles
that we will put in the barrel. In this area we do the packaging. This is mizithra cheese with brine… and we put it around the barrel
to add flavor… and to protect the cheese
from touching the wood. This gives Kalavrita feta
it’s unique taste. I have never heard of that. Now we will take out the cheese
from this barrel… which me made yesterday… -It’s still soft.
-It is but not like before… But now we can take it out. You have to be careful
not to break it. Here you go. I will tell you to come
once in a while… when I am very busy,
so you can lend a hand. Of course. You put the mixture on it…
-Yes, we are ready now. Here you go sir. Great. It will go into the aging chamber
for about 15 days… and then we will put it in the fridge. It is hard work
but the result is rewarding. -We make a great product.
-I haven’t tasted it yet. In order to agree
I have to try it. I am going to have some too. Awesome. It’s incredible. It’s one of tastiest cheeses
you can eat. Oh my god. Fantastic. I will also cut some gruyere
for you to try. Bon apetit. Delicious. It’s not salty at all,
its sweet. You have to try our yogurt as well. Yogurt is something
you can eat just like that. It doesn’t need much. It has skin. We make yogurt
every three -four days. We make feta one day,
gruyere the next… Today, because we had a bit more milk
we made both. All three are amazing.
Congratulations. Thank you.
It was a pleasure. Next stop, the beautiful
and evergreen Zahlorou. Ano Loussi – Kato Zahlorou
Mac ‘n’ cheese We are at the Vouraikos gorge… in Kato Zahlorou… and what could be better
than to cook here on this bridge… where the train comes through… and I will make
the simplest food possible… In America it’s called
Mac ‘n’ cheese… in Greece we call it
Pasta with cheese
(Makaronia me tyri). It will be so unique
and so tasty… and so easy to make… that no one will believe
we made it with just one pot. Things are very simple.
We begin by warming up our hands… we have to warm them up… I will add some salt
to the boiling water… we need some salt… and I need 250 grams
of ditalini pasta… Perfect. I set it aside… That’s the hard part of the recipe.
Now we wait for the pasta to boil. Hello, hello! I think my pasta has boiled. So, what I will do is to
take it out of the pot… because I want
to keep the water. I want to find a way to make
a quick béchamel sauce. I will add some oil here… so my pasta doesn’t get sticky. I will throw away
most of the water… I will save about 200 grams
of the pasta water. I will add some cream cheese… which will lower the fat content
of my recipe. because I don’t want it to be
too rich… and it will also give it
a creamier texture. I will make a wonderful
and quick béchamel sauce.. Truly amazing. Now, I pour the pasta back in… Oh my god! Look at this! Amazing pasta! I will add some thyme… and some cruched, dried red pepper,
to make it spicy… Some garlic powder… So I have the garlic with the thyme
and the ground peppers… and to give it the yellowish color
of mac ‘n’ cheese… I will add some mustard powder. I also add some pepper… a bit of salt because I will
put cheese in as well… And the secret is to have
this texture… I am going to turn down the burner… and I will slowly add the cheeses. I will mix it… and when the first portion melts
I add in the next one. Look at how it is changing. As I add in the cheese and mix
the cheese melts… and it becomes
a beautiful cheesy cream… Oh my god!
I will try it. Fantastic. Great food! Look at the texture. In the end, to give it a crunch… I will break up a rusk,
I know it seems strange… but it does pair well with it. And of course, we are in Kalavrita
so we will add some local feta. It’s mac ‘n’ cheese.
We want it to be as cheesy as possible. Some thyme on top… Oh my god! And of course,
some fresh olive oil. over the rusks,
so they soften…. and get the flavor
from the olive oil. I don’t think you have ever seen
a cheesier mac ‘n’ cheese. I will take a bit of everything. Some rusks, some feta,
some pasta and some oil… Definitely add some rusks on top
it really goes well with it… the seasonings really
elevated the recipe… Although this dish might seem rustic,
it is very delicate and gourmet… and it is very, very tasty. I will go from top to bottom,
I won’t stop, I think I’ve got this. You have to find harder things
for me to do… Brake! I am going to make
ski center fajitas…. with various sauces… I want small pieces… Oh my god! I will give the first one to Katarina
who was my instructor. And it’s finally time
to go up to the ski center… and to go skiing
for the first time in my life. Kato Zahlorou – Kalavrita Ski Center
Ski instructor I am stepping down. Great. What’s going on? Are you going to be
making fun of me constantly? -Let’s proceed as planned.
-Ok, let’s go. Be careful here… Ok… -You take these in your hand.
-Perfect, where do I go? Over there. -It’s not that easy to walk in these.
-Really? Ok, I am used to it now. It’s easy, heel to toe. When you go up
you use the toes to latch on. Perfect,
I think this is enough walking. Aren’t we going to the top? No, let’s start from here.
It’s downhill enough. So, you legs should be parallel… like me… Great, you can makes shapes
in the snow. -Perfect, is that it?
-Yes. -And do I turn now?
-Good. Open… Don’t cross your skis. Open up your heels more. Good. Good. Brake. That’s it. I’m going up guys. I will come down
at a speed of 200 km/hour. Life is good. Come up slowly, one by one… and whenever you are ready, go. Brake. Brake. Good, hard brake. Hard brake.
Lean forward. That’s it. Brake, brake! Brake, brake! Let’s go. -Let’s go all the way up now.
-Let’s go. Get ready for a great course. I will go from top to bottom,
I won’t stop, I think I got this. He is ready to speed up. Turn your tips… towards the slope… Let’s go, go on.
You’ve got this. You have to find harder things
for me to do. This is too easy. I can go sideways too. Brake. I didn’t fall! I didn’t fall! I didn’t fall. And I won’t fall! The slope is yours. Sorry! -That was close.
-Sorry guys… it’s not my fault,
I am that good. What should I do?
Fall over on purpose? Ok, you’re good at skiing,
but I am hungry. Give me five. I will cook something
and you won’t charge me for the lesson, ok? Let’s go. Kalavrita Ski Center
Altitude: 1,700 meters
Recipe: Fajitas with beef and chicken. After my first great ski lesson… I will thank the guys
by making something for us to eat. I chose to make something
we can share… something I can put in the middle
and everyone can make their own… I will make Ski Center Fajitas… with various sauces. My first sauce is very simple
and has a yogurt base. Some lemon… here… some olive oil… perfect. and of course, some coriander. Coriander is the main herb
we use in fajitas… It’s an ingredient you must use. Coriander, lemon, yogurt,
olive oil, some salt… a bit of pepper… here… and I all I have to do is mix. So, one sauce is ready. I set it aside. Our second sauce
is with avocados. We need avocados… It’s amazing to cook here… all the ingredients
are easier to work with. Look at this. The conditions
are ideal to make anything. It is very simple,
and lemon has center stage. We will add some lemon juice
to protect the avocados from oxidizing. With a fork I will puree the avocados,
only with lemon now… And now it’s time to add
the rest of ingredients. Some crushed, dried red peppers…. A generous amount of olive oil… About 3 tablespoons… Salt… and pepper… perfect. I will again add some coriander… Look at this… These are very simple recipes. The sauces for fajitas
should be simple… and bring out all the flavors
from the ingredients we use. My second sauce is ready. On to the third and last sauce… Tomato… Here… I will cut it up, not too finely. These pieces are fine… Here… in here… I must definitely add… onion… not too much… I will add it to the tomato. What herb are we going to add? Coriander. We start with coriander,
we continue with coriander… and we finish with coriander,
that’s the secret. We put the coriander on top… and lots of oil. I know that whoever eats fajitas
likes lime… I will add a bit of lime… we can also use lemon. So, I will add some lime… The sides for our fajitas
are ready. It’s time to prepare everything else. Peppers… here… I will put them in the wok… I like to put the peppers in
without any oil… because this way
we smoke them. It’s time for the onion… We add the onion in… Olive oil… It immediately lights up… Perfect. I think lighting a fire
in the snow is fantastic. I will add some salt… some pepper… And because I want my peppers
to be a bit spicy… I will add a chilli pepper… And now it’s finally time
to prepare the meat. I have pancetta, veal – top sirloin,
and chicken filet. I will thinly slice all the pieces
so I can grill them quickly… So… here… and here… don’t worry, we will be eating
in three minutes… The recipe is very simple… We don’t have to do much
with the meat. We will just add oil,
salt and pepper… All the flavor in this recipe
comes from all this. They are amazing. Olive oil… Nice… Salt…
He smelled the meat. Salt… Pepper… And I will add the rest
of my lemon juice. Perfect. Let’s go to the grill… Here and here… It’s amazing. No one has ever made fajitas
at a ski center. Veal, here… While I am grilling the meat… I think the peppers are ready… I will finish it off
with some lemon juice… here… A generous amount
of finely chopped coriander… and some spring onions. Great. Perfect. I put it in over the peppers… Look at how nice it is turning out. We almost have everything. We take our meat…. here… on the coriander… and we start cutting it up. It’s hot… but I think
it will get cold really fast. Some veal… I want small pieces… so everyone
gets a bit of everything. I think fajitas on the mountain
will become fashionable. All we need are the tortillas… some lime… so whoever wants
can squeeze some on their fajitas. And of course, some fresh olive oil
on our meat. Salt and pepper… and if we want to make it
a bit spicy… we can add some
crushed, dried red peppers… and some lemon. Fajitas can be made
however you want… so I am not going
to prepare anything… So I will call everyone
to make their own fajitas. Guys! -Let’s go!
-The food is ready! Akis, we are starving! The smell is incredible! I have a great set up… Here we add whatever we want… You should try a bit of everything… to mix it up… here, great. Nice. We wrap it… and enjoy! The first one goes to Katerina,
my instructor. Here you go,
I made it for you. So get in there. You have to eat a bit of everything,
so wrap it. Wrap it. Do your thing. You can add some sauce too. -Thank you!
-This is great, right? You have never eaten fajitas
on the mountain, right? So, will you be back?
To cook and ski. The truth is that
because the slope was easy… I made this dish. At a more difficult slope
I will do even more. It’s a deal!
Give me five. Incredible. One thing I discovered
on this trip… is that Greece is beautiful
during the winter as well. And Kalavrita has definitely
earned a spot… on my personal culinary map.