394HP Turbo FA20, 100k Subs & Aero | Today At HPA [UPDATE 222]

394HP Turbo FA20, 100k Subs & Aero | Today At HPA [UPDATE 222]


– Hey guys it’s Andre from High Performance
Academy. Welcome along to this week’s webinar. Today we’re going to be talking about
the differences between what we consider to be a club level wiring harness and those
that are more traditionally referred to as Mil-Spec. We don’t really like using that term and
instead we prefer to refer to them as professional motorsport wiring harnesses. So we’re going to talk about some of the
differences in terms of the materials used, why different materials and techniques
are used for professional versus club level, what you’re going to be looking at in terms of
required tooling or equipment, consumables, cost, time, all of those sorts of things
and finally answering the question as to how you should choose between one of the
other in terms of the techniques you’re going to be using. Before we do that though, we’re just going
to cover off a few things that have been going on and it is a busy week here at
HPA Labs because it is race week. This week we have the second round of
our endurance championship. So that’s a practice on Friday at our home
track Highlands Motorsport Park, followed by qualifying and a one hour
endurance race on Saturday. And then to just add a little bit more
motorsport into our weekend, on Sunday we’ve got the first round of
the Highlands Sprint Series. So those are a series of I think we get
four six lap races on a shortened version of Highlands Motorsport Park. So pretty excited, I’m going to show you
a few of the things that have been going on with preparation for the two cars. Before we get into that, just because it is
pretty much on point with our discussion today, our webinar today on motorsport
wiring, I just wanted to jump across to my laptop screen and show you,
this is an Instagram I put up late last week and this is also relevant because the
video that I’m going to show you today that we just launched on our YouTube
features this particular steering wheel. So one of the things we quite often end up
with in motorsport is a situation where we’ve got a lot of driver controls fitted
to the steering wheel. For those who have been following us,
I did talk a couple of weeks ago about the buttons and switches we’ve just fitted to
the steering wheel on our Toyota 86 and one of the problems is getting all of these
controls back through to the ECU. And the traditional method is to use a curly
cord running from the steering wheel back to the chassis. In this case Mercedes AMG here with their
DTM car have used a very special quick release steering hub and this is from
Krontec and this actually incorporates essentially an Autosport connector inside
the steering wheel itself. There’s obviously the matching part of that
on the steering column side of the adaptor and essentially then this allows you to
quickly connect and disconnect all of your wiring from your switches et cetera as soon
as the steering wheel is removed. So it means that you don’t have one of those
curly cords in the way and of course everything comes at a price and considering
this does incorporate two sides of an Autosport connector, you can understand
that these aren’t the cheapest devices in the world. Now on that note as well it is still likely,
even though with all the controls that are on this AMG steering wheel that the,
probably somewhere up in here, I’m only really spitballing here but I’m just
going to take an educated guess, the team are probably using an analogue
to CAN interface board. Because you’re going to need a sensor
zero volt and a digital input for each of your switches. For a potentiometer multi position switch,
you’re going to need a five volt reference, and analogue voltage output and a sensor
ground. So understandably by the time you’ve got
a few of these controls plus some paddles there for shifting and the clutch et cetera,
there’s a lot going on and you’ve got to get all of those wires back through. Now yes you can do this with an Autosport
connector a little bit easier than you can with a curly cord however chances are they’re
probably using this CAN interface board. So what that does is it takes all of the wiring
on the steering wheel and it converts the digital switches and the analogue voltage
potentiometers into a CAN message. And this means that the actual wiring that
runs between the steering wheel and the chassis generally only needs to be four
wires, we’re going to have a 12 volt, a zero volt, CAN high and CAN low. So it greatly simplifies everything. Now if you are considering jumping out
and purchasing one of these pretty expensive Krontec hubs, I’ll just mention
though that they are still really designed primarily for purpose built racecars where
you’re going to have a limited amount of steering lock as well because obviously even
at the chassis side, you’ve still got to get your wiring out of that steering column. So if you’ve got a traditional factory style
road car where you might have three turns lock to lock, you’re still going to end
up wrapping up the end of that cord at the column end. So just a little bit of insight into some of the
techniques that are available when it comes to steering wheel switch controls for
professional motorsport. Now just getting into some of the things that
have been going on with the preparation for our Toyota 86 for this weekend’s round
of the endurance championships. We’ll head across to my laptop screen. And Brandon has been busy getting in some
late nights and some long hours setting up a little bit of basic aero on the car. Now we’re not talking here about anything
that has any computational fluid dynamics involved, we’re not aerodynamicists, this is
just designed to be a quick and dirty attempt to get us just a little bit of downforce at both
the front and the rear of the car. So this is pretty common at grassroots
motorsport level. So we’re being pretty honest about what this
car is and where it’s intended. At some point in the future we do plan on
developing a slightly more sophisticated aero package for the car plus wide body but
for the moment, we’re getting by with a sheet of 12 millimetre plywood, that’s what
made out splitter there. So we’ve just extended that out to help try
and control the airflow both above and below the car. And while it’s a little hard to see here,
on the side, Brandon’s also incorporated a canard and an end plate. So we weren’t really super keep on the look
with plywood though so to make it look a little bit more racecar he has gone to the trouble
of laying that up with a carbon kevlar and epoxy so it does look just a little bit
better than it would normally. So we can see that canard sitting in there. So we’re hoping that that will give us a little
bit more grip at the front end and to go along with that we’ve also incorporated a
rear wing. Now again this is just a relatively cheap off
the shelf rear wing, there’s not a lot of data available for it but we’re kind of going with
the principle here that some is going to be better than none. And at the last round I’m pretty confident we
were the only car in the field that had absolutely no aero, no rear wing at all. And it kind of looked on the starting grid
like we’d got lost on our way to the spectator carpark. So we’re hoping that that will work,
particularly at our home track, we know the track very well, we know
what the car’s capable of and there are some really high speed corners where we’re
kind of limited on our traction so we’re hoping that just a little bit of downforce
is going to help us out there. Now the other thing that has been going on
with that car since we put our TTi six speed sequential gearbox in it, we have
obviously had to make a driveshaft to suit that. So we had a company make a driveshaft
for us, it’s a one piece driveshaft that uses a slip yoke at the front and we’ve
been chasing an imbalance or a high speed vibration I should say, ever since that went
in. Now it can be a little bit hard to track
down these high speed vibrations because we changed a of components
all at the same time. We obviously fitted the six speed sequential
gearbox, we also had the driveshaft made, we also did some work on the rear
differential and it had new axles in the back. So what we’re really facing here, for those
of you who haven’t experienced this, it can be really off putting, like this is a
serious vibration, when you get into sixth gear, the vibration in the car is so bad
that it’s difficult to see out of the rear view mirror which is not that helpful when you’ve
got GT3 racecars coming up behind you at high speed. And it’s also not really that good for the
components in the car. So far we’ve had that high speed vibration
cause a power feed off our alternator to fracture, we’ve also had the bracket for our
alternator fracture and we sheared through a bolt on the front of the driveshaft at our
last race. So obviously we want to get on top of this
and we haven’t been sitting on our hands here. The first step was to send the driveshaft
back to the company that made it. They checked the balance, found that the
balance was out, supposedly corrected it, sent is back and it was absolutely no better. So we kind of decided we needed a more
rock solid solution. Dealing with my network of contacts in
New Zealand here, found out who another racecar builder here in New Zealand that I
trust was using for driveshafts, a company in the North Island of New
Zealand, sent the driveshaft up there, they checked the balance on the existing
shaft and found it was out by a massive 20 grams. So at this point we’ve had them rebalance
our initial driveshaft, we’ve got it back in the car, obviously we’re going to be crossing our
fingers and hoping on Friday that when we get out to test that the high speed
vibration has gone. At the same time we also have just received
our new Driveshaft Shop 1000 horsepower rear axles, probably overkill for what we’re
doing at the moment but this will future proof the car for what we’ve got
planned. Now the limitation with the factory hubs
in terms of how big we can go on the driveshafts or the CVs is really the limit,
is the size of the wheel bearing and where it goes through the hub. So that kind of limits the drive flange size. Which in turn limits the outside diameter
of the spline. So basically with the 1000 horsepower axles,
Driveshaft Shop go to the trouble of supplying a complete new hub assembly,
a bigger wheel bearing and a bigger drive flange. So those will be going into the car as well. Now if we just jump back across to my
laptop screen. Now this won’t be making it into the car
for this next round but when we purchased the car it had a set of Endless front brakes,
which worked exceptionally well. This was matched to a set of stock rear
brakes which are a cast iron one piece rotor and hat. And we were finding that while it wasn’t
suffering from any problems with the braking, if we looked at the temperature
using brake temperature paint on those rear rotors, we were getting up to
somewhere in the region of 550 degrees C which is pretty high. Not outside of the working range of the
pad. So as I say the braking wasn’t a problem but
what we were having issues with was our outer CVs were getting exceptionally hot
to the point the grease was melting, was melting through the CV boots and we
were having failures with the outer CVs. So one of the theories that we worked on
and this is just a theory, was that we were putting a lot of heat, obviously 550 C going
into the hub through that one piece brake rotor and there it’s going to end up getting
transferred to the outer CV as well. So at the moment we’ve put the rear brakes
off our other car which are a two piece rotor, much bigger, with a four pot caliper,
ultimately though we’re going to be making up a new set of rotors and a mounting hat
for these Endless brakes. So that takes us through to the modifications. I just want to also talk about the repairs that
were necessary after our last round. And for those who joined us last week,
I showed a short video of us getting shunted in the back of the car coming
into turn one on the first lap. Not ideal and it actually ended up doing
a reasonable amount of damage. Panel wise there was a little bit of work
required there to straighten things out but awkwardly as we can see here,
or as you probably can’t see but the area I’m circling there, this is where an external
surge tank and fuel pump was mounted by the original person who built the car. Now remembering that this was originally
built as a street car. Probably in hindsight not the smartest
location for a fuel pump in a racecar and we’re going to be addressing that
ultimately with a new bash bar that’s actually going to wrap right the way around
the entire rear of the car. However in this accident, what it did is it
dislodged that surge tank a little bit and pushed it forward. And I’ll just show, there’s a side shot of that
surge tank system. And what we ended up finding was during
Ben’s stint, he got in about half way through our one hour race and just towards
the end of my one hour race I was starting to get driver warnings for a low fuel pressure
and the car was starting to surge. I thought that that was just because the
fuel level was low, we only had about 11 litres left in the tank. Came in, did our pitstop, put another 40 litres
in to top it off and Ben headed out. And on his out lap was already complaining
about fuel surge. So that didn’t really make a lot of sense. Looking at the data we were seeing
anywhere from four bar which is the normal fuel pressure, down to as low as 1.5 bar. So obviously not great. What we ended up tracking that down to,
or Brandon has just got on top of, is that when the pump was forced forward,
it was ending up sitting against another part of the chassis that it should have been
well clear of and the positive feed to the fuel pump was resting against quite a
sharp piece of steel. So when the car went around a corner,
that was actually shorting. So this is fed power via a Ecumaster PMU
and this is kind of one of those mixed blessings because the PMU is set to fuse
every circuit and we can control the fusing current as well as how many times the unit
will retry a particular circuit if it does blow that fuse. And what was happening here is it was set
to basically indefinitely retry the fuel pump circuit, it would blow that fuse, it would wait
one second before reinstating power. So this is what was causing our fuel surge. So ultimately we’re going to get on top
of that anyway and we’ll be ready for this round of the championship. Now as I mentioned, we’ve got two cars
racing this weekend though. We’ve also got our RaceCraft Toyota 86
which is our original development car. Those who are familiar with it from a little
while ago would remember it was a white car fitted with the FA20 engine with a
turbo kit on it. So we’ve just gone through and we’ve fitted
a whole lot of new suspension components. In the back here we can see we’ve got our
SPL parts, CNC machined alloy suspension arms, we’ve also got a set of MCA coil over
suspension there as well as MCA’s little traction mod bracket which affects the anti
squat geometry at the rear of the car. At the same time we also took the opportunity
to fit up a set of Hankook slicks which we had had lying around for a fair while so this is
the first time the car’s actually run on slicks. Now part of this was because we were
filming the worked example for our RaceCraft course. So for those who aren’t familiar with
RaceCraft, I’ll just quickly mention that RaceCraft is our offshoot project we’re
about to release. So essentially identical to High Performance
Academy however this will be focused on race drive education, car modification,
basically how to optimise your car if you’re attending track days and you want
to get a little bit more speed out of the car. Our very first course is on do it yourself
wheel alignments. And this is a skill that I reckon every home
enthusiast who is interested in track days should have. And it’s really not that difficult to do and it’s
not going to require you to spend the earth in terms of components. So here we’ve got the car set up in our
workshop and we’re using what’s referred to as a string wheel alignment
system. So we’ve got a frame at the front and the
rear of the car. And that holds these alloy bars and what
we’ve basically got is two alloy bars front and rear with machined slots in them
that we can then, it might be a little bit tricky to see, we can then locate a string
down each side of the car. The aim there with those strings is that
we want those strings to be parallel to each other as well as parallel to the
centreline of the car. Once we’ve done that we can very easily
and accurately measure the toe at both ends of the car as well as measuring our
camber using a camber gauge, caster as well if you want to measure that. So it allows you to make very quick changes
to the suspension setup. And particularly you can then do this at
the track. Really useful particularly if you want to
try improving the performance of the car, the handling of the car. Or even if you want a change between a
dry and a wet setup. So really excited to have that course out,
we’ve just finished proofing it this morning, a couple of small changes that are needed,
and we’re hoping that that course will be out in the next few days. So if you are interested, you’ll be able to
check that out at racecrafthq.com. For all of our existing HPA members,
you’re going to get some email information about that when it is released. All of our existing HPA VIPs are also going to
get free access to that course. So pretty excited to get that out there. Now on top of the wheel alignment settings,
if I’ve, looks like I’ve run out of photos. Just bear with me for a second here and
I’ll try and get them up. Right, on top of the wheel alignment settings,
it’s also one of our aims is to always run our cars on the dyno because that way
we know, well sorry, before we head to a race meeting. This way we’ve got the confidence that when
we get to the race meeting, unload the car off the trailer, we’re going to know that on
the out lap, we’re going to have no problems. Or at least that’s the plan. So we want to basically eliminate any chance
of problems creeping in that we could have dealt with before we get to a race meeting. So that’s exactly what I did with the
RaceCraft car last night. Got it loaded up on our Mainline Pro Hub
dyno and just for those who aren’t aware, the engine combination here is a stock
standard FA20 with a set of BC aftermarket connecting rods, HKS head gaskets and ARP
head studs. So very basic engine setup. We’ve had no problems with the factory
cast pistons, even though they are 12.5:1 and we’re running a turbo kit on it. It is an AVO turbo kit, although we have
swapped out the original AVO turbo in favour of a BorgWarner EFR 6758. Still one of my favourite turbos for a street
application on a two litre engine. And on 0.85 bar of boost peak, we ended up
with 394 horsepower at the rear wheels. So that’s the most power it’s ever had,
one of the changes that we made prior to this meeting was to fit our Tomei titanium
exhaust system which is a little bit more free flowing than what’s normally on it but
also a little bit louder. And for those who are wondering how we
get away with that much power on a 12.5:1 naturally aspirated engine, it’s of course
because we are running on a diet of E85. So everything in that car is also controlled
by a MoTeC M150 ECU. So pretty excited to get that out on the
track for the sprint series and see how it goes, put it through its paces and
check the performance of all of that new suspension gear. Alright moving on, we have also just released
our latest video which is our Tuesday release. So we’ll just head across to my laptop screen
and if you haven’t seen it already, please make sure you head across to our
YouTube channel and check it out. So while we were at Goodwood Festival of
Speed, we had the opportunity to check out a wide range of amazing cars. One of my favourites was this 2018
Mercedes AMG DTM C63. And this is a series that I haven’t followed in
too much detail. Always admired these cars, particularly the
aero component of the cars. They really are impressive from an aero
standpoint. But never really got a chance to get too
up close and personal particularly considering we’re on the oppostie side of
the world. So it was great to find out what actually
goes into these cars. In particular finding out about the control
chassis. So in this case it runs a carbon fibre
monocoque. It’s actually really not that far away from the
sort of technology used at the likes of F1 level and that is a control chassis regardless
what the actual body on the car is. Of course all of the bodywork is then adapted
to that carbon monocoque chassis. And the bodywork is made out of carbon
fibre as well. So while they may look loosely like a
Mercedes AMG C63, there’s really not a lot of C63 left in the car. So if you’re interested in learning a little
bit more about DTM technology then head over to our YouTube channel, check
that out and subscribe. And pretty happy to announce as well,
we have just clocked over 100,000 subscribers. So it’s been a long uphill battle, we do thank
you all for subscribing and supporting us, those who are. We do get a lot of positive feedback from
our channel. Of course we’re trying to put out
technical content that is really appealing to a niche market. We’re not really in the market of trying
to put out mainstream videos. So probably not much chance that our
videos are going to be clocking over three or four million views like some of the
more popular channels but we like to think that we bring something pretty
special to the table and from the feedback we get, it sounds like it is pretty well
received. Last but certainly not least, we are running
another one of our giveaways and this particular giveaway, we have teamed up
with the guys from JE Pistons in the U.S. Got just one sample here which is for a
Porsche from memory. But JE are well renowned for making some
of the best forged pistons out there. We’ve run them in a number of our own
engines including our old drag engines for our Mitsubishi Evo drag car. So JE will be giving away a set of their shelf
stock pistons. Along with that, we are also including our
suite of engine building packages so that you’re going to know what to do with those
pistons. So if you’re at a point in your own project
where you’re considering an engine build, then this is the ideal opportunity to perhaps
jump in and score yourself a free set. They’re going to be giving away anything
as long as it is one of their shelf stock supported products. So basically if you’re dealing with a
mainstream engine that’s popular, chances are they’ve got you covered there. So our suite of engine building courses
includes our Engine Building Fundamentals, our Engine Building Practical course, as well
as our How to Degree a Cam course. On top of that you’re also going to get access
to our private member’s only community which is the perfect place to ask questions
on your specific engine building project. So I’ll get the team to drop a link in the
comments that you can follow if you want to get your name into the draw there. There is of course absolutely no cost getting
involved there and you’ll find that there are a few additional steps that you can take
that’ll give you more entries into the draw. So head across and make sure you sign up. That has only just recently gone live so it’s
got a little way to go but make sure you jump on that while it’s still fresh in your
mind. Alright thanks for watching there, give me
a few moments and we’ll get started with today’s webinar.

11 thoughts on “394HP Turbo FA20, 100k Subs & Aero | Today At HPA [UPDATE 222]

  1. You’d probably be surprised to discover how much effective downforce you’ll produce applying common knowledge and experience vs compu flu dyn.

  2. I want to see the boys at HPA make it all the way up self developed and documented F1. Always great content. Love to follow your development.

  3. Congrats on the 100k!! I always love watching your videos, such great coverage on a variety of really interesting topics. A must-subscribe channel for any car enthusiast

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